When people think of Venice, their minds often go straight to Piazza San Marco, the Rialto Bridge, or the crowded tourist-filled streets. But there is another Venice—more hidden, more authentic, where life moves at a slower pace. Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio, located in the Santa Croce district, is one of those places that tell the true story of the city, in all its simple and everyday beauty.
Unlike many Venetian squares that have been overtaken by mass tourism, Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio remains a vibrant hub of local life. Here, children play under the trees, residents gather for a chat on the benches, and outdoor cafés invite visitors to take a break with a good coffee or a glass of wine.
The atmosphere is relaxed and genuine: it’s not uncommon to see elderly Venetians strolling leisurely while younger locals enjoy an aperitivo in the bacari around the square. The presence of many trees—a rarity in Venice—makes this place even more charming and unique.
At the center of the square stands the Church of San Giacomo dell’Orio, a hidden gem with great historical and artistic value. It is believed to have been founded in the 9th century, although the current structure is the result of numerous renovations, particularly between the 13th and 16th centuries.
One of the church’s most striking features is its unique wooden ceiling, shaped like an overturned ship’s hull—a tribute to Venice’s deep maritime tradition. Inside, you’ll find ancient columns that were repurposed from Roman buildings, giving the church an eclectic mix of Gothic, Romanesque, and Renaissance architectural styles.
San Giacomo dell’Orio houses some remarkable paintings by renowned Venetian artists:
Another highlight of the church is the stunning Gothic tabernacle, attributed to the workshop of Bartolomeo Bon, as well as the evocative altarpiece depicting St. James.
After visiting the church and strolling through the square, the best way to soak in the atmosphere is by stopping at one of the bacari nearby for an aperitivo.
An ombra de vin (a glass of wine) or a spritz, paired with some cicchetti—Venice’s signature small appetizers—are the perfect way to experience the local way of life.
If you want to discover the real Venice, far from the crowds, Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio is the perfect place. It’s a spot where time slows down, allowing you to enjoy the city’s beauty without the hustle and bustle of tourist hotspots.